After-Market Rolex or Factory Setting - Which diamonds are better for Iced-Out watches?
A diamond-encrusted watch is arguably the most extravagant and attention-grabbing form of a luxury watch. Especially through their media presence in the music scene and on social media, these sparkling timepieces have become extremely popular in recent years.
Many well-known greats, especially from the hip-hop scene, like to show themselves with the most exuberant glitter watches.
But what is actually behind them? Are the diamond watches really as priceless as they look, or do we have to differentiate here as well?
The Iced-Out watches, which are directly set by Rolex, have a Factory Setting. These watches are highly exclusive, extremely expensive, and a big part of the Rolex Hype. The craftsmanship is excellent, and most of these models have a very good value growth, as they are rare. However, there are also aftermarket set models, called Custom Iced-Out watches with Aftermarket Setting. These are either one-of-a-kind pieces or imitations of the original Rolex models and are not nearly as expensive. The Factory Settings are better in all aspects than the Aftermarket Settings.
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Factory setting vs. aftermarket setting - the biggest differences
There are two variants of Iced-Out Rolex watches. On the one hand, there are Factory Setting watches, which were originally set with diamonds by Rolex. On the other hand, there are also timepieces with After-Market-Setting. These are watches that were not originally set with diamonds but were later set by a non-certified third party.
At first glance, these two variants are hardly distinguishable. After all, the after-market versions can also have a very high-quality diamond setting.
But then where is the exact difference?
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What distinguishes a Factory Setting watch?
The most important point of a Factory watch is already in the name. That is, all diamonds are handpicked by Rolex itself and processed in-house, without any third party being involved in the process.
At the same time, the design and composition of the stones, that is, the arrangement and proportions, are completely in line with the ideas before Rolex.
The process of setting is extremely complex and requires countless steps. These are carried out only by qualified specialists, which is one reason why the Iced-Out watches from the factory are so expensive. At the same time, the production of these Rolex watches is heavily limited due to the high effort involved. This is also in line with the luxury watchmaker from Geneva. Because the target audience for such watches is not too large due to the extraordinary appearance and high price.
Additionally, Rolex probably produces deliberately only a few Iced-Out wristwatches to make them appear even more exclusive.
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What distinguishes an aftermarket watch?
Aftermarket watches, on the other hand, are characterized by the fact that they are set with gemstones by a third, non-certified party only after purchase.
With these custom watches, there are no limits to creativity. Whether a full diamond setting, a mix of baguettes and green emerald stones, or colorful diamonds anything is possible.
These watches are usually made according to the individual wishes of the owner, with diamonds being just one of the options. To find out what else you can change on your watch to make it unique, check out our article on custom watches here.
After market watches are relatively common, despite the loss of value, because anyone can have them made. For example, you can get a fully-occupied after-market Datejust from about 14,000 euros.
This is a relatively affordable price considering that for this you get a fully diamond studded Rolex that just catches the eye.
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Factory Setting - the valuable Iced-Out watches.
So, the studded watches that are really valuable are Factory Setting models that are made by Rolex itself.
These are rare and already listed at very high prices. Due to their rarity, it is likely that these Iced-Out watches have a good value growth. In addition to diamond-set models from the Day-Date series, which have a good value growth, an example would be the Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master Ice. This is one of the few Rolex models that comes from the factory fully set with a variety of diamonds.
Soccer star Cristiano Ronaldo has already worn the glittering GMT in public. If you want to purchase the GMT Ice, apart from the long waiting list that exists at Rolex, you can expect to pay around 500,000 euros.
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The disadvantages of an aftermarket Iced-Out Rolex
Aftermarket watches cannot come close to competing with such price developments. On the contrary, most custom diamond watches lose value because the original condition of the watch is altered.
It is also important to consider that Aftermarket models are not actually designed for diamond settings. When diamonds are set on these models, the shape of the actual watch is altered. The entire case and bracelet must be ground down. During this process, it can quickly happen that the quality of the otherwise perfectly intact Rolex is diminished. Even if the workshop that sets the diamonds afterward is highly skilled in its craft, it will never surpass the excellence of the Rolex factory.
Moreover, Rolex reacts extremely sensitively when their wristwatches are modified afterward. The factory warranty is voided immediately as soon as a watch is altered. Additionally, the watch will be rejected for a Rolex watch service because they consider the watch as counterfeit.
And the prospects for value development in custom Iced-Out watches also look bleak. Because the value of the watch, despite the diamond setting, is diminished as the original condition is, so to speak, "damaged."
When buying an aftermarket Iced-Out watch, one should be aware that it is never an investment and only the purely visual aspects speak for it.
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Conclusion - Diamonds from the factory are always best
Ultimately, it is so that only original Factory Setting Iced-Out watches from the factory are an investment. These are excellently finished, extremely rare and therefore incredibly expensive.
A more affordable alternative to these is Aftermarket watches. These are set with diamonds afterward by a third party. The custom diamond timepieces can be entirely unique creations or identical to the originals from Rolex. However, they come with some disadvantages, such as significant value loss and loss of warranty.
In principle, one can say that you should always prefer a Factory Setting Rolex over an Aftermarket watch. One is the original, and the other is the imitation.
However, it is also clear that very few people can afford or want a factory setting wristwatch. If you are solely fascinated by the Iced Out look and intend to wear a sparkling diamond watch for a long time, then buying a custom Iced Out timepiece can also make sense.
Scource cover image: Rolex
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Q&A
What is the difference between Factory Setting and Aftermarket Setting?
While in Factory Setting the watches are set by the manufacturer, in Aftermarket Setting the watches are subsequently set by a non-certified third party.
Is Factory Setting or Aftermarket Setting better?
Factory Setting is always better in terms of quality, exclusivity and price development. The After Market watches can only score with their low prices.
What are the disadvantages of an Iced-Out watch with Aftermarket Setting?
The most significant disadvantages are heavy depreciation, premature warranty expiration and poorer quality.
About the author
Alexander Weinberger
For me, the most fascinating thing about watches is the interplay between precise craftsmanship and artistic development. In a watch movement, hundreds of small parts have to be put together precisely so that they form a large whole.
