Which Day-Date configuration has the best increase in value?
Stock savings plans, ETFs, cryptocurrencies or real estate in times of high inflation and volatile markets, it probably hasn't passed anyone by that you should invest your money if you don't want it to be eaten up by inflation.
A somewhat less popular way to invest money, but one that has gained increasing popularity in recent years, is the purchase of luxury watches, especially the brand Rolex.
This has two positive aspects at once. On the one hand, you can wear an excellent wristwatch. On the other hand, your money is ideally safe, or it even multiplies, as the value of the watch increases.
Rolex watches, in particular, are known for being extremely stable in value and are often traded on the gray market far above their regular list price.
But the market for watches has been stagnant for about a year. Even though the obese models still cross the counter at horrendous prices, the prices of most watches have been falling for about a year.
Nevertheless, this is by no means a reason to stop seeing Rolex watches as an investment.
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Perhaps even now is the opportunity particularly favorable to buy a Rolex watch.
Now the question arises, in which watch should you invest your money? Which features are value indicators and for which criteria should you keep your hands off the watch?
The Day-Date, with its iconic standing and glorious history, is the seventh most-traded Rolex watch on the gray market and can therefore be considered as an investment.
Below, we analyze the Day-Date and examine its prospects for appreciation.
How a Day-Date will develop in terms of price depends on many factors, such as the popularity of the bracelet, the alloy and many others.
The platinum Day-Date with a smooth bezel was discontinued in 2022 and replaced by one with a fluted bezel. The smooth bezel configuration will become rarer and rarer in the coming years and could possibly face a huge appreciation in value. In addition, the classic yellow and white gold Day-Dates are extremely popular. An increase in value for these configurations is not at all unlikely.
What to look for when buying
First, there are a few things you should consider when buying any watch if your intention is to increase its value.
Never buy your luxury watch from disreputable dealers. If you encounter noticeably low prices when buying a watch, the seller gives a strange impression and insists on selling you a specific watch, or you simply have a bad gut feeling, then alarm bells should ring. It could be that you are being offered replicas or stolen watches.
It's best to buy only from reputable dealers, such as Watchfinder, who guarantee the authenticity of the watches.
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Furthermore, you should always look for watches with original box and papers, as these provide a hundred percent guarantee of authenticity.
Additionally, remember that the wristwatch should be in its original condition. Altered custom watches are always worth less because they are considered "damaged" in a way.
What are the main value indicators on a Day-Date?
There are numerous aspects to consider when buying a Day-Date. A specific alloy or dial can make a difference of thousands of euros in value development.
In general, it is true that popular characteristics are also worth more. The value development of a Day-Date is largely determined by the appeal it has in the watch scene.
Wristband
The President bracelet is as essential to the Day-Date as the rotating bezel is to the Submariner. You should always prefer a President bracelet for a Day-Date. This is because it best matches the aesthetics of the President's watch and is most popular among the masses. Day-Dates with Oyster or leather bracelets are also available, but they are not nearly as popular and therefore not as promising in terms of value appreciation.
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Alloy
For the alloy, it is advisable to stick to the white and yellow gold models. The prices of these versions have not dropped as much in recent months. Moreover, these alloys have the broadest appeal and are quicker to resell. The Everose Day-Dates are quite popular, but not as in demand since they are somewhat more unusual. Their prices have also dropped much more significantly than those of the white and yellow gold configurations.
We also tend to advise against the platinum models with one exception, which we will discuss later. Platinum model prices have been on a downward slide lately. Platinum Day-Dates are simply not as popular, as white gold configurations look very similar, but are substantially cheaper.
Dial
When it comes to dial colors, less is more if you want to play it safe. In general, Day-Dates with simpler dial colors hold their value more stable. Silver, gold, black, or white dials are classic and timeless, which is why they never go out of fashion.
However, it can also happen that all of a sudden colorful dials become trendy and the prices for certain colors skyrocket.
When it comes to indices, on the other hand, the conventional ones are the most popular. Therefore, you should go for Roman or the classic filigree indices.
However, the Day-Date with baguette-cut diamonds as indices is extremely popular and potentially even more promising in terms of value growth.
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Diameter
When it comes to diameter, you should go for the 40 millimeters, as this is more popular and contemporary. The 40mm has also tended to perform slightly better in the gray market in recent months. When it comes to diameter, you should go for the 40 millimeters, as this is more popular and contemporary. The 40mm has also tended to perform slightly better in the gray market in recent months.
Bezel
All new Day-Date models have a fluted bezel. However, many vintage models also feature a domed or smooth bezel. In principle, it is better to opt for fluted bezels, as they are more popular due to their iconic Rolex feature.
The platinum models, however, are an exception. Until recently, they stood out because they had a smooth bezel. However, it was also replaced by a fluted one last year.
Gemstone setting
Most diamond-set models have underperformed in the past year. Therefore, it is generally not recommended to invest in Day-Dates with a diamond-set bezel. Watches with diamonds were extremely popular in recent years, but nowadays, the trend is shifting back towards the classic, untouched versions.
But if you do want to invest in diamonds, then you should buy a Day-Date that has a popular baguette cut diamond indices dial.
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These Day-Date configurations are most promising
When buying a Day-Date, you should note that there are some configurations that are more popular and valuable than others.
The picture book Day-Date
The epitome of a Rolex Day-Date is a yellow gold watch with a champagne or white dial, fluted bezel, President bracelet, and Roman indices. This quintessential Day-Date is classic and timeless and will likely never lose its popularity. Presidents and movie stars have worn this watch, and for some, it is even the embodiment of a Rolex. The statistics are also relatively promising.
The prices for this configuration have stagnated within the last year, from around 47,000 Euros at the peak to approximately 41,000 Euros, however, this decrease in value is limited compared to other configurations. Precisely because the prices have stagnated, now is a good time to buy.
White gold day-date
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For those who prefer something more simple, it is recommended to buy the white gold Day-Date with a diameter of 40mm.
The prices for this configuration have stagnated within the last year, from around 47,000 Euros at the peak to approximately 41,000 Euros, however, this decrease in value is limited compared to other configurations. Precisely because the prices have stagnated, now is a good time to buy.
And the drop in value in the generally stagnating watch market is also limited. While it crossed the counter for around 53,000 euros at its peak in May 2022, it can now be had for around 42,000 euros.
So the two extremely popular models are promising, especially if luxury watch prices in general rise again, these models could trade at old prices again or even higher.
Insider tip: The Platinum Day-Date with smooth bezel
The platinum Day-Date was always recognizable by its smooth bezel. However, last year, the luxury watch manufacturer from Geneva introduced the platinum Day-Date with a fluted bezel and discontinued the Day-Date with the smooth bezel. This means that the configuration with the smooth bezel could become a rare collector's item. Especially in a few years, this is not an unlikely scenario. In this case, massive profits could be made.
Especially when you consider that the price of the most expensive Day-Date has plummeted. Since May 2022, when the platinum watch was still selling for over 110,000 euros, the price has fallen continuously.
In the meantime, however, it "only" costs around 70,000 euros on the gray market.
This is especially remarkable when you consider that the Everose Day-Date, which was always much cheaper than the Platinum Day-Date, was trading for more at its peak.
If you're considering buying a watch in this price range, the Platinum Day-Date should be a very hot tip.
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From these Day-Date configurations, you should better keep your hands off!
At the same time, there are also many configurations that are undoubtedly interesting watches, but their prospects for performance leave much to be desired.
Day-Date on a leather strap
Basically, we do not recommend the Day-Date on a leather strap. Although prices have not fallen too much at all in the last year, this watch does not promise massive price increases.
The leather strap is simply not as popular as the legendary President bracelet, for which the Day-Date is known. Day-Dates with a leather strap can be found for around 20,000 Euros, making them relatively affordable for a Day-Date, but at the same time, no significant increase in value can be expected.
The Day-Date on a leather strap probably floats in its own cosmos with its very own target group. There are other Rolex watches on leather straps, such as the Daytona, which are certainly more promising in terms of price development.
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Day-Date Pearlmaster
The Day-Date Pearlmaster is an extraordinary watch. Not only does it have its very own Pearlmaster bracelet, but it also features diamonds on the bezel, and in some variants, even on the entire dial. Additionally, the dial has a pearl-like shimmer that highlights the extravagance of this particular Rolex.
The Pearlmaster has even proven to be relatively crisis-resistant. It has remained at a price of around 50,000 euros for years. However, as already mentioned, the popularity of diamond-studded watches is on the decline again. The days of fully studded glittering timepieces are numbered.
Furthermore, the Pearlmaster bracelet is simply not as popular as the President bracelet. Also, the overall appearance of the Pearlmaster is more feminine, which has an impact on the popularity of this Day-Date configuration.
Platinum Day-Date with Baguette Cut Diamonds Set Bezel
This is probably the most exclusive Day-Date, yet its prospects for appreciation are sobering. While this platinum Day-Date was traded at a peak of around 212,000 Euros in May 2022, it is now available for around 140,000 Euros. The value of the watch has decreased by over a third within a year, and there is no end in sight for this downward trend.
This Day-Date already has a smaller target audience due to its very high list price. It may also be not very popular because it is too expensive for a Rolex Day-Date, and for the same money, one could acquire breathtaking complications from competitors like Patek Philippe. At the same time, it closely resembles the much more affordable white gold Day-Date.
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Unusual models and vintage Day-Dates
Of course, the market reacts differently to unusual configurations of the Day-Date. Rolex has introduced new Day-Dates with colorful dials in 2023 as well as a very flashy version that displays emotions and emojis instead of the date and day of the week.
For these new models, it is possible that gray market prices will initially skyrocket due to the strong hype surrounding the new colorful dials.
However, this is not guaranteed. Models with gemstone dials will likely find great appeal.
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The Day-Date with the puzzle dial and the altered date and day displays has already received some criticism shortly after its introduction, as die-hard Day-Date fans cannot come to terms with the watch losing its primary function of displaying the date and day of the week. This version may not experience particularly good value development.
Vintage Rolex watches can bring about extreme value increases due to their age and the rarity of some models. The vintage watch market behaves somewhat differently. The most decisive criterion for the value of a vintage watch is solely its rarity. Discolored dials, scratched hands, and loose original bracelets can make a difference of tens of thousands of Euros.
There are some models that are so rare that you can't even find them online at the moment.
The Day-Date with the reference number 1804 has a red dial and a bezel set with diamonds. It is made of 18k white gold and was built between 1960 and 1978. At the same time, it is so rare that you can't even find a single one on the web.
Another example would be the Day-Date with the reference number 18239, which is distinguished by the fact that it has a dark green dial, but which does not have any indices. This wristwatch is also extremely rare.
Such a dial in black also has the Day-Date with the reference number 18238. This wristwatch is almost 30 years old and not quite too rare as the ones already mentioned, but still trades for more than brand new Day-Dates with a price of 45,000 Euros.
If you have the opportunity to acquire such rare collector's items, you should definitely seize it. For certain vintage watches, an increase in value is almost guaranteed.
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Conclusion - prospects of appreciation are never certain
If you are hoping to increase the value of your watch by buying a Day-Date, you should go for the classic, popular models in yellow and white gold. 40 mm diameter, plain dials and the well-known President band are the most promising here.
But it is also important to remember that the platinum Day-Date with smooth bezel was discontinued in 2022, so the prices for this configuration could increase tremendously in the coming years.
Day-Dates with leather straps, the Pearlmaster as well as the Platinum Day-Date with baguette bezel should rather be kept away from if you are aiming for a good performance. These models are either too expensive or too unpopular.
Vintage Day-Dates, on the other hand, are quite different. There are some extremely rare Day-Dates, which promise terrific value developments. With these watches, the difficulty lies only in getting hold of the right ones at all.
In the end, it must be said that speculating on the value development of a watch is always associated with luck. No one can see into the future. There are so many factors that we haven't even mentioned yet, such as the price of gold or Rolex's production volume, which influence the prices.
For example, if Rolex were to increase the quantities of its watches, allowing more people to get the coveted timepieces at list price, gray market prices would plummet anyway.
In addition, Rolex has already declared war on the gray market with Certefied Preowned watches, which are refurbished watches that are certified and available for purchase from concessionaires like Bucherer.
Ultimately, the best investment is always purchasing at the list price. If you have the opportunity to get a Day-Date at the list price, this is, of course, the most attractive option.
Scource cover image: Rolex
About the author
Alexander Weinberger
For me, the most fascinating thing about watches is the interplay between precise craftsmanship and artistic development. In a watch movement, hundreds of small parts have to be put together precisely so that they form a large whole.
