The art of fine watchmaking - Haute Horlogerie
Everybody who is somehow invested into mechanical watches should quickly realize that Swiss brands make the best watches. But not all Swiss wrist watches are equal to each other. Even within this small microcosm separates into subclasses, which are defined by special terms such as quality, tradition etc. There are well known quality seals such as Swiss Made or the Haute Horlogerie for example.
Just the name gives us an already a Hint, that the Haute Horlogerie is the most elite and most demanding class. It includes super high-quality standards but also several extraordinary artistic aspects.
The Haute Horlogerie is a ultra demanding special quality class within the watch cosmos. It has got unique requirements in terms of ambitious complications and exquisite craftsmanship. Additionally, the members have a very long tradition. The most important representatives include Patek Phillipe, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin and Jaeger-LeCoultre.
What is Haute Horlogerie?
The term Haute Horlogerie is of French origin and means something like "the art of fine watchmaking." This is already a clear indicator of what Haute Horlogerie is about. However, its definition is very vague.
Indeed, the Haute Horlogerie is not defined that strictly.
But let's start from the beginning.
The Haute Horlogerie was born in the 1970s while the dreaded quartz crisis was at its peak. The watch industry was desperately trying to assert itself against the dominating new quartz technology. The idea of the Haute Horlogerie was supposed to present a new unique selling point.
The main focus was on the quality and difficulty of the composition of the mechanical movements.
There is already a very detailed article about the quartz crisis on our blog, in which you can find here.
Here you can find the explanation "How a quartz movement works".
But in a nutshell the Haute Horlogerie is some kind of special class. Only a few watches, that fulfill the super high requirements in terms of exclusivity, quality and finesses belong to it.
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The most known representatives of Haute Horlogerie
But which brands can count themselves among this exquisite royal class of watchmaking?
Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
Effectively, there exists even an official association in order to preserve the tradition and quality of watchmaking with the conditions of the Haute Horlogerie. This association is the so-called Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie and it has existed since 2005. Back then it was launched by the three founding members Audemars Piguet, Girard-Perregaux and the Richemont Group.
The Fondation counts 28 members by now.
But let’s have a closer look at the most important ones.
Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron Constantin is a perfect example for a member of Haute Horlogerie. The Brand fulfills any of the previously mentioned Criteria. It also offers several models with the popular Grande Complication such as the Les Cabinotiers for example. But at the same time the brand has got a long history, from which uncountable innovations emerged.
About Vacheron Constantin, resp. the Fiftysix from Vacheron Constantin, we've written a detailed article.
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A. Lange & Söhne
Another participant who does not originate from Switzerland, but can nevertheless play at the very top of haute Horlogerie, must be A. Lange & Söhne. While the brand has got an eventful history, it most recently stands out for its impressive skills in terms of craftsmanship. Their flagship is the Lange 1, which was launched in 1994. It can be seen as a perfect example as a representative of Haute Horlogerie. It features not only a Grand Complication, but also it is extremely intricately handcrafted, and has the finissage as well. Thus, you can marvel at the three-quarter plate with the Glashütter Stripes through the transparent back. Another Watch worth mentioning is the Zeitwerk, a mechanical Watch with a digital Time Display.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Furthermore there is the brand Jaeger-LeCoultre. This manufactory is special because of its old tradition and long history such as its edgy approaches. The Reverso is the best example for this, because it has a rotatable case, or the Atmos which is powered by temperature fluctuations. But JLC can also be convincing in terms of craftsmanship. As the company is known for manufacturing excellent calibers, which are decidedly thin, but still have intriguing complications.
A well-known inheritor of Haute Horlogerie might be JLC's Master Control series.
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Audemars Piguet
Moreover Audemars Piguet is a super important part of Haute Horlogerie. This Brand finds its origins already in the early 19th century and has lived through a long tradition of fine watchmaking ever since then. Today it is still AP’s priority to create the most demanding movements with enormous patience and remarkable finesse. Besides the Royal Oak, the Code 11.59 is the best example for this. AP itself describes it as an ultra-complication, as it amalgamates 40 different functions, including 23 complications in one watch.
Patek Philippe
And last but not least there is the absolutely iconic brand Patek Philippe. This company combines Luxury, tradition and craftsmanship like no other. Their extraordinary creations in terms of design and complications are especially convincing. Most people know Patek only for its famous nautilus. but it has much more to offer.
The true watch enthusiasts appreciate the brand in particular for the excellent complications and extravagant conceptions.
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With which advantages does the Haute Horlogerie come along with?
We already said that the Haute Horlogerie emerged from a special situation, as the mechanical watches ran the risk of becoming extinct, because the cheap quartz movements captured the majority of the market.
And this is where we see the biggest advantage. Because the Haute Horlogerie is an alliance of numerous meaningful watch brands in some way, it also comes along with combined power, even though the companies are competitors.
Moreover the Haute Horlogerie guarantees very specific super high standards. Everybody who wants to be part of it has to accept these. That's also why all of these watch brands play in such a high league, because everybody accepts it.
At the same time, it preserves the History of fine watchmaking and makes sure that it won't be forgotten.
In the end Haute Horlogerie sets up some kind of frame that can be used as orientation very well.
What qualifies a Watch for Haute Horlogerie?
Well, it's a good question what exactly a watch qualifies for Haute Horlogerie. As we mentioned already, it is not defined as strictly as you might think. But it is out of question that the most important factor is the complexity of the caliber.
At this point an important keyword is “complications”. Complications are additional functions that bring extra benefits in terms of acoustics, astronomy or time display. There are perpetual calendars, moon phases such as chronographs just to refer to a few of them.
A complex mixture of complications is obligatory for the Haute Horlogerie. The tourbillon is very popular in this class. It's an extra outsourced balance wheel, which is visible on the dial. The tourbillon has got its origin in pocket watches. Because back in the days, the tourbillon served the purpose of protecting the balance wheel from the effects of gravity. But this doesn't have a remarkable effect on a wristwatch, which is always moving. Thus, the effect a tourbillon has on a wristwatch is marginal. Nevertheless, it's a super beautiful complication of Haute Horlogerie that is at least vastly beautiful to look at.
But this isn't enough. In Haute Horlogerie it's common to combine several complications in one watch. The Grand Complication is the most important representative in this context because it combines three of the most difficult complications. Traditionally this has got a time measurement, calendar and bell. This special combination requires extraordinary technical knowhow so it's very demanding. If you succeed in manufacturing such a complex caliber, you are already a good deal closer to Haute Horlogerie.
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Finissage
But the Haute Horlogerie requires even more. As important as the complexity of the movement is the Finissage. This term describes the artistic skills of craftsmanship such as for example the decoration of the movement.
Techniques like manual beveling, Côtes de Genève, black polishing or perlage are part of this.
The first one is a special decorative way of finishing the edges in a 45 degree angle. But it doesn't only come along with optical purposes, because it contributes to the functionality as well.
The Côtes de Genève are also known as Genevan Stripes. These are wide, straight stripes running parallel to each other on the plate of the clockwork. In German manufacturers such as A. Lange & Söhne, they are also popular as “Glashütter Stripes".
At the same time the black polishing is the most demanding sort of finish at all. It's a special kind of polishing which makes the surfaces look black in a certain light angle. But this procedure is very costly, so that it is only used on the tourbillon bridge in most cases.
The perlage is a special finish as well. This is because it appears as an overlapping curricular grinding, which is mostly found on the bridges and plates.
Usually, you can observe these extraordinary decorations through the transparent bottom of the watch, which is made of sapphire glass. Besides there are even decorations which act as seals of quality such as the Poinçon de Genève. It guarantees excellent and flawless movements. That's also why members of the Haute Horlogerie often have this seal.
All of these skills are extremely demanding. The certain kind of craftsmanship requires a super high level of finesse and sure instincts. This is also why many watch manufactures train their watchmakers specifically for finissage to make sure, that the enormous high standards of Haute Horlogerie are maintained at any cost.
Is your watchknowledge up to date?
Here is our list of must-know watches!
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Tradition
It is also important to mention that Haute Horlogerie isn't only about craftsmanship. This point is of course the most important one, but in fact, the history and authenticity of a brand is also decisive.
In this context you differentiate between the so-called Maisons such as Audemars Piguet, Jaeger-LeCoulte or Patek Philippe and Brands like Bvlgari or Cartier.
These special houses are characterized by their continuous history and how they maintained the founder's philosophy over this long time.
For the other brands it's important that they can show up a well-documented history and that they participated in the innovation of the watch maker tradition continuously.
Q&A
What is Haute Horlogerie?
Haute Horlogerie is a special class of fine watchmaking. The watches who belong to it must fulfill certain super high standards and are very exclusive.
Which are the requirements for Haute Horlogerie?
Watches of Haute Horlogerie mostly have a Grand Complication such as other special traits like extraordinary craftsmanship, which is called finissage. Moreover the brand must cultivate a certain degree of tradition.
Which members belong to Haute Horlogerie?
To the most important members count companies like Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre such as Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and A. Lange & Söhne.
Scource cover image: A. Lange & Söhne
About the author
Alexander Weinberger
For me, the most fascinating thing about watches is the interplay between precise craftsmanship and artistic development. In a watch movement, hundreds of small parts have to be put together precisely so that they form a large whole.
