Watch-complications: the ultimate Guide

When it comes to luxury watches, it’s all about elegance, precision, and craftsmanship. 

But there’s something that takes watchmaking to an much more sophisticated level.Of course todays topic is about complications. These are additional functions of mechanical watches that come along with entirely new, extraordinary possibilities.

In this ultimate guide, we delve into the stunning world of watch complications. In this article, you will learn everything you need to know about complications. 

Complications are additional functions that go beyond their main function of displaying the time. Some of the most well-known complications include the perpetual calendar, which always displays the date, month, and year; the chronograph, that includes a stopwatch function; and the tourbillon, which protects the balance wheel from the effects of gravity. 

A list of complications

Chronograph

The Chronograph is most likely one of the most well-known and popular complications. Its name has its origin in ancient Greek, as it combines "Chronos" (time) with "Grapho" (write), aptly describing its function: the timing of events, independent of the time displaying.

The chronograph is started and stopped by buttons on the side, while the stopped time is displayed on totalizers (subdials).

Pressing the start-stop button stops the chronograph, and the reset button sets it back to the initial position. 

Modern chronographs impress with more than only with precision but also with the complexity of their calibers. Some models are additionally covered with rattrapante (split-seconds chronograph) or flyback functions, which enable the user to measure intermediate time intervals or to reset process quickly without stopping the mechanism.

This technical sophistication combined with its very own design, turns the chronograph an iconic complication with historical roots in racing. 

Perpetual Calendar 

The perpetual calendar can be described as an eternal complication without any doubts.

With its special mechanism, it can account for all the irregularities of the Gregorian calendar, ensuring that the date is always displayed correctly – even in leap years, without the need for manual corrections. 

The perpetual calendar is usually displayed through a series of sub-dials on the main dial, showing the day, date, month, and year. 

The perpetual calendar is usually displayed through a series of sub-dials on the main dial, showing the day, date, month, and year. 

GMT

The GMT complication, is called after Greenwich Mean Time and it is an essential feature for any world traveler.

It enables the watch to display a second time zone, while the watch displays the regular local time normally.

This is achieved by an additional hand that rotates around the dial once every 24 hours, pointing at a special 24-hour scale. This scale is typically located on a two-color bezel that indicates day- and nighttime. The precision and sophistication with which this function comes along with is truly impressive.

Tourbillon

The Tourbillon must be one of the most exclusive complications available, as it’s a fundamental part of the Haute Horlogerie.

A tourbillon consists of a rotating cage that carries the entire escapement system, including the balance wheel such as the pallet, and rotates around its own axis once per minute. This mechanism counteracts the effects of gravity, which improves the accuracy of the movement.

However, this function was originally designed for pocket watches. The tourbillon has barley an effect on wristwatches since they are constantly in motion and subject to various forces while you wear them on your wrist.

In Fact, the visual fascination of a tourbillon is undeniable and incomparable. It gives the dial a dynamic aesthetic and invites to spectate the enchanting mechanics. 

Datumsanzeigen

Date display and day of the week display are considered as small complications. While the year display is a bit more sophisticated.

The date is usually displayed through a small window on the dial, that shows the current date. The day of the week display presents the current weekday through a similar window or with its own sub-dial.

The date is usually displayed through a small window on the dial, that shows the current date. The day of the week display presents the current weekday through a similar window or with its own sub-dial.

Power Reserve

The power reserve traditionally appears in watches with manual winding. It gives the wearer visually information about how much energy is still stored in the watch movement and how long it will run before it needs to be wound by hand again. 

This complication is usually executed with an integrated scale on the dial. As the hand moves in sync with the relaxation of the mainspring, it providis information about the remaining running time of the caliber. 

This complication consists of a precise coordination of springs, levers, and wheels in order to guarantee accurate display.

The power reserve is a wonderful example of the fusion of aesthetics and functionality that characterizes luxury watches.

Moon Phase

The next complication on the list is as stunning as mystical. This feature artistically displays the current state of the lunar cycle, thus forming a bond between time and cosmos – the moon phase. 

Technically wise, the moon phase display consists of a rotating disc visualized through a tiny window on the dial. The disc is adorned with two images of the moon and rotates in sync with the real lunar cycle, that lasts approximately 29.5 days. That’s how the current state of the moon is presented, from new moon, over the first and last quarter, to full moon.

The aesthetics of this complication depend on the fine design of the moon images and how they are integrated into the dial. A well-executed moon phase is a perfect example to the watchmaker's craftsmanship, while it’s simultaneously adding a touch of mystique and romance to the watch.

Rotating Bezel

The rotating bezel is a characteristic and functional element that gives the watch quite a unique selling proposition. 

As it was originally developed for diver's watches, so that divers can easily determine their remaining dive time underwater, it is commonly associated with watches in the marine context. Before diving, the bezel is turned to the desired position so that the diver can see briefly how much time has passed since he is under water.

While the rotating bezel may seem like a simple feature, it actually requires sophisticated mechanics to make it possible. It is always located on the outside of the watch case around the dial and can be turned in either one or both directions. But the scale on the bezel can serve various purposes, such as determining distances or displaying a second time zone in combination with the GMT function.

Minute Repeater

The minute repeater is also known as a striking mechanism, as it fascinates the world of luxury watches in an auditory manner. 

By using a lever or button, a mechanical concert in which small hammers strike tone springs is activated, thereby representing the current time audibly.

In the technical view, the minute repeater has a series of springs, wheels, and levers that must be perfectly coordinated witch each other in order to reproduce the correct tones in the right sequence. 

The minute repeater is not only an extravagant feature for watch enthusiasts who want to experience time acoustically but also a symbol of luxury and the elegance of a watch. As the tourbillon it is considered as one of the most sophisticated and exclusive complications. Only a very few watch housesare able to manufacture these difficult creations. 

Seconde Foudroyante

The next complication is also known as "lightning second" as it allows a much more precise representation of a second. 

Each individual second is divided into smaller intervals, making the seconds display precise and visibly.

Technically wise, the "Seconde Foudroyante" is super challenging for any watchmaker, as it requires an additional gear train and a special escapement to achieve the delicate movement of the small hand.

 When this complication comes into existing, you experience a second hand which races across the dial at astonishing speed, displaying every millisecond. 

Without any doubts the "Seconde Foudroyante" is a symbol of precision and perfection, while it’s adding an additional layer of sophistication and elegance to a luxury watch. 

Rattrapante-Chronograph

The Rattrapante Chronograph or double chronograph is an advancement of the ordinary chronograph. It enables the user to determine an intermediate interval within another measurement. 

For this function, two second hands are stacked on top of each other, which start together but can be stopped and restarted independently. 

On the other side aregatta chronograph is specifically designed for sailing and has a countdown function, which allows the wearer to synchronize the countdown with the start of the sailing regatta. Often these watches are also equipped with colored segments to visually support the countdown.

Both complications are an impressive testament to the technical sophistication and craftsmanship of the watchmakers and the chronograph technology in specific, as these complications are also an ideal example of the combination of aesthetics and functionality. 

Equation of time

The Equation of Time is an extraordinary complication that estimates and displays the difference between true solar time and mean solar time.

This discrepancy, known as the "equation of time," results from the elliptical shape of Earth's orbit and the tilt of its axis.

But mechanical conversion of the equation of time requires a super high degree of craftsmanship and precision. A special cam, which reflects the seasonal variations of solar time, is integrated into the watch movement to accurately represent the deviation.

The complication is a perfect homage to the astronomical roots of watchmaking and a demonstration of the astonishing technical possibilities hidden in a luxury watch. As it only adds an extra charm to the watch, it also serves as a constant reminder of the complex and wonderful nature of time itself. 

Grande- Petit Sonnerie

The Grande Sonnerie and the Petit Sonnerie are complications of an acoustic nature.

With the Grande Sonnerie, the watch strikes the hours and quarter-hours at every full hour, while the Petit Sonnerie only strikes the quarter-hours. The harmonious ringing of the gongs and bells which are created are created by an intricate system of springs and hammers.

The complexity of the mechanism required for these functions is breathtaking. Watchmakers must ensure that the movement has enough energy to handle the additional loads without compromising the accuracy of timekeeping. 

Alarm

The alarm is a fascinating complication that offers a functional and elegant solution to notify the user at a certain time. With a harmonious sound, you are gently reminded of important events or appointments.

The technical side behind this function is a wonder of skill and precision, as a separate mechanism, consisting of an additional spring and a small hammer is required. This strikes a bell or a gong striker to produce the alarm tone.

The sophisticated complication combines functionality with elegance and demonstrates the philosophy of watchmaking. Without any doubts the alarm is not just a practical feature, but also a homage to the tradition and craftsmanship, which turns timekeeping into a true experience. 

Altimeter

The altimeter or height meter is an impressive complication is a very useful function for certain adventures.It allows the wearer to accurately determine their current altitude above sea level - an indispensable tool for mountain climbers and hikers such as pilots.

The technology behind the altimeter is based on the principle of the barometer, where changes in air pressure are used to determine the altitude. Through a precise mechanism consisting of technical components and ingenious displays, the current altitude is shown on the watch's dial. 

Equipped with an altimeter, the luxury watch becomes a faithful companion for all adventures that venture into the heights. It represents the perfect combination of functionality and aesthetics and impressively demonstrates how traditional watchmaking innovative technology can go hand in hand.

Jumping Second

The jumping second is also well known as "deadbeat seconds" or "seconde morte," is a fascinating complication in the world of mechanical luxury watches. This feature holds back the second hand to move not continuously, but in discrete steps from second to second. That’s why it’s called Jumping Second. At the same time, it reminds of the movement of a quartz watch.

Technically, the jumping second is realized by an additional gear train and an escapement that stops the second hand for a second before it jumps to the next second mark.

With its unique movement of the second hand, the jumping second combines tradition and modernity flawlessly. At the same time this complication is a bit extraordinary and ironic, as the fluent second hand is exchanged by a jumping hand, which reminds of a cheap quartz movement.

Pulsometer

The pulsometer is complication with a medical backround. Thus, it allows for the unparalleled precision and sophistication of measuring the wearer's heart rate.

The functionality of this complex mechanism is based on a precise scale on the watch's dial. After the user has counted a specific number of heartbeats, he must stop the chronograph, and the hand points to the scale that indicates exactly the pulse rate per minute. 

The pulsometer creates a connection between medicine and watchmaking masterfully. It is remarkable that you a watch enthusiasts can combine any hobby or witch watches by dint of complications like the pulsometer.